Back at Extreme Edge Panmure last night,

The Ceramic Moped never turned up, hope that back is not the issue, and that it is some burnt pots causing the no show.

I spent my evening with the SeraphinPhly and Mr Cough Syrup.

It was a good evening, FBC talking too much as usual, as Mr Cough Syrup pointed out sarcastically a couple of times, TT was telling us how easy some of these Climbs are, and how you just have to reach up and it's all good .....

Yeah Right

Try it when your arse is closer to your feet!!

Only a couple of failures, a green route that we did not realize went all the way up. So SP redesignated it to Climb Yellow route and then Transfer to green at the top of yellow ... Yes Maam!!

FBC tried .. sat twice, and like all good rats, came back!


There was a really quick Juggy Blue 15 ... love those

and then a "Oh God I'm buggered" Yellow hard start 17........ failed and quit for the night ...

OMG . It has been Sooooo Long

OMG . It has been Sooooo Long


A year a go I suffered an Abscess in the rear end, a piece of very sage advise, if you are going to have an operation down there, Never Never NEVER ... "YouTube" your condition  ... Ever!!

So the final opp was December 8th 2015, and healing has taken quite some time.

Been back climbing for a few months now, mainly top rope ...

On Sunday  I decided to have a lead Breakfast ... that would be a lead PIGS Breakfast!

I was having a really nice mid winter session with JohnnyWebMan, and ended up convincing myself, against my belayer's better judgement, to  have a crack at Samarkand on lead, it is half ways along the LongSide at Auckland Boys Grammar, and is only ... yes only, 8m high.

There was Squeeling, there was sitting, there was a terribly Dry throat, and at the end there was a beached Bulgar white whale belly flopping on the belay ledge, making obscene rasping noisies from it's Blow hole ...

The more reasonable Belayer ... saying "Well that was a good effort"

There were five pieces of gear used, top piece was kicked out ... should never have been used
number 2 was an old super rock, and was not placed well and caused a sit on the the first piece with a lengthy reassessment.

There were 4 Acts during the whole tragedy, with the main antagonist retiring to the wings at the end of the play.

The winter of minor Discontent.

I know my friends that I have not written for long time.

We in Auckland still have no access since the boulder fall last year to our home, the Long Side at Auckland Boys Grammar School, we have had to content ourselves with Short Side climbing and indoor at Extreme Edge.


With winter well here that is not such a bad thing, and many a fine weekend have been spent at Oparure road, Te Kuiti.    http://www.greenglow.co.nz/  with diversions to Castle rock in the Coromandel, this was not as fine as our vaunted Weather casters in Welly bones lead us to believe, with the car far below us and the us up on the peak disapearing in wind and rain.

Castle Rock is a fantastic spot, but I am much more sold on Oparure Rd, in winter, a sheltered north facing Rock, Limestone, nice and warm when touched by the sun.

There are nice easy grades for beginners and then some mid grades for us old timers to lead,  being well bolted  we left our trad at home. From Auck the return trip in the Nissan P12 wagon was $66.62  and that was nicely spit between the three of us on that journey.

We stopped a Pirongia on the way though, useing the towns nice clean toilet, and having a rather fine and tasty pastry, this ment the Tin Man had to take charge of the P12, now with undelaminated tyres she was running smooth.

I will add some pics soon.

Cheers
FBC

So much a happining

The Long Side remains Closed at Auckland Boys Gramma, so the training has been a bit muted.

Done a trip to Karagahaki gorge in Late January with Mr Careful and the a later trip Saturday before last to Foggatt Farm with the Tin Man and Mr Careful.

That was a good two leads on a bolted 14 and a bolted 17 followed by a complete and utter FUBAR on a bolted 17, got up to the top but had to go off Route and at one point had a finger through a bolt, and ....TBC

Extreme for Oldies, Bad Santa' gets 1/2 a reigndeer

Well the Hip appears to be holdin up to a bit of Wednesday night indoor down at Extreme Edge in Panmure, and in NZ we will soon be in Daylight saving time "Sunday Morning" campers.

Soon we will be on the rocks again.

On the Homee front I have the Plastereer in doin the bedrooms ready for paintin, so have moved in to the livenroom, using the small guest bed, Which is ok for one person, but NOT OK for one person and 2 FAT FURBAGS, especally one that Snores louder than the FBC.

Will be headin off to Northern areas soon for a brief visit and the Bad Santa Chrisco will be Cat knapping......... he also gets a dirty old white slay to chug around in ........ Diesel 0 - 60 in 3 min (that's mm/hr), one radio station (go the Whorehouse car sterio), Auto..... like the car desides what gear ....OK!!




Yeah baby YEAH!!

Rain Rain Come again indoor we go to the house of Pain

Well Well Well, three weeks of Wednesday night Climbing at Extreme Edge in Panmure. Last nights foray has left the FBC in Quite a lot of discomfort ....... I think I need to change my acronymity ...... FOBC Fat Old Barsted Climbing ......... Oh Shit ....... No Shit .....Who Gives a Shit......

Stuck to climbing 15s 16s and 17s, with fails on 17s 18s 19 and 20s ........ God loves a tryer ........makes her laugh.

Tin Man was a no show last night, was climbing with Mr Careful. Climbed last week with the Tin man and was not in to much pain the next day............... Yeah hello ....hello ...... Yes Left leg I know your there..... you do not need to remind me every 3 minutes....... where are the drugs.... give me drugs.....

Hippity hip, Hoppity hoe.

I have not been able to climb much since January, when I strained my left hip. Bugger. The Locum I went to see thought it was a burser injury, and it would take a month of care and I would be able to ease back into it.

So a month goes by and I'm doin a lot of walkin and no bicycle, and no Climbin, and no runin.

I thinks, OK nuffs nuffs... back into the wall, so that lasted 2 weeks and damm it was back again, try walkin it off but just started to get worse......... even walkin was becomeing painful..... back to the Doc .... My Doc..... not some newbee.

Xrays First..... Hip looks really good ......apparently have good spacing in the joint.

Next off to the pain giver...... Ooooowwww sorry Reuben, ,.......... Physio. He's really good and was really happy with my strength and balance (for a fat old barsted my age)......... but when he TRIED to measusre ma aflexability he's a fund that ma body is as inflixable us a redneck at a lynchin parrrti.

Apparently Pauline Hansen is more flexable than my hip..........yeah