Last Wednesday indoor, Hot an steamy it was, loud rain on the roof, with the White Rabit and Doc Petit, did some climbs, Old Yorky joined the team, and a good night of banter and climbing was had.
Saturday - with Bad Santa to Panmure we tripped, after his Kiddy, Milfy, Candy time hit. We had good workout and Santa well stuffed. I bought him fish dinner that night, he was chuffted, My preference for Shanks, Mad Dogs has my thanks.
Ahhh back to Real Rock....... No Doc Petet, just some wingy bleeding Rabit Meat...
We climbed up the favorite old Soliloquy (18), then on with Bad Behavour (23) went the Rabitt and Me, most impresed to behold the Rabitt to be, when at the top with four paws, he managed to be, less wasted breath on complaining he should, and more Trust be placed in the whiley old FBC. The panting Rabitt was a Joy to see!!
Samakand came next it's grade escapes the old FBC, but again the Rabitt performed to a tee, more panting seen once the ground regained, a big grinny face, one cold hold no blame. Recovery taken for the FBC with a lovely crawl up old Soliloquy, Showing ma Skills to the Stoketherapy.
Enough of the crapp, now all that is done, it was off to Deffuts (18) with my minimal Rack, 4 wires, 1 cam, 3 draws on each hip, buggered the top and had a wee sit. Mr Careful came down for a go and then the White Rabbit was the centre of Show, doing damm fine till he entered the Crux, then started his falling with wuinging and such, a small blodded paw was held out, for all to see, to which GingaAndy reponded with Glee, "It's still attached, the're are no pools of blood, get to the top, while there's still light to see".
Moore advise from the ground was shouted on up, Roasted White Rabitt was had for the Sup......
Bad Santa no show, we were all so upset, twisted panties he has I'd wagger a bet.
Wednesday, December 09, 2009
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
A White Whale gets wHarnessed.
Burrowed the parrental units video Cam......
Took to the Quarry.
Climbed with pH and the Tin Man, the Student, others of the cast were there.......
pH took on the challenge and videoed the FBC shirt off glowing white against the grey rock, first on Silver Airman (17) and then on Defuts (18), finally an attempt on Raven and edged up a little more than last time.
pH was climbing well, and Student was well stuffed by the time the FBC arrived.
It was a beautiful clear night.
the weekend was a bit of a letdown on the personal front, drove down to Waipapa, where the Boy and Mr Blue Top were having fun, but in the words of Mr Blue Top, "Lost ya MoJo", did not climb, drove home again, veged on the sunday. so this wednesday was a good return.
Took to the Quarry.
Climbed with pH and the Tin Man, the Student, others of the cast were there.......
pH took on the challenge and videoed the FBC shirt off glowing white against the grey rock, first on Silver Airman (17) and then on Defuts (18), finally an attempt on Raven and edged up a little more than last time.
pH was climbing well, and Student was well stuffed by the time the FBC arrived.
It was a beautiful clear night.
the weekend was a bit of a letdown on the personal front, drove down to Waipapa, where the Boy and Mr Blue Top were having fun, but in the words of Mr Blue Top, "Lost ya MoJo", did not climb, drove home again, veged on the sunday. so this wednesday was a good return.
Wednesday, October 28, 2009
SlackBarstedClimbing
Had the Long Labour Weekend, two beautiful sunny days ya wooda thought I'd be right into it............
OK so Friday night I was up til 12 configuring an XP machine (for a friend OK), and that activated the geek gene, Saturday Loaded up my second Machine with Ubuntu 9.04, it's got a silent HDMI card, went out side for the fist and last time of the weekend, got an HDMI cable (stupid cheap prick), got home plug in in and .......flick ..........flick.......flick ........flick..........Awe Shit, went and dug in a box and pulled an old VGA cable ....... sweeeeet.
The rest of the weekend ...... Voyeger.......movie ..... Voyeger ....... Movie ..... Warehouse 13........
bad bad ...bad ...... bad ...... bad.......
OK so last night he in Auck Land was promised as a Fine an d sunny night ....... Yeah right.
Many of the usual face were there, I climbed with OldYorkie, Chem, and Artful, and watched Antiflam on chasing after Charlie.The FlyingMan, Mr Careful. No Tin man and the Rabit went indoor, Bad Santa never beat the weather, although he did get up Orangatang the previous Wednesday, well done that boy.
Climbed Sowiliqy, Bandersnatch, Bad Behavior, and Samercand, not a bad night in all, but rained out at 730. and only the Bandersnatch lead.
OK so Friday night I was up til 12 configuring an XP machine (for a friend OK), and that activated the geek gene, Saturday Loaded up my second Machine with Ubuntu 9.04, it's got a silent HDMI card, went out side for the fist and last time of the weekend, got an HDMI cable (stupid cheap prick), got home plug in in and .......flick ..........flick.......flick ........flick..........Awe Shit, went and dug in a box and pulled an old VGA cable ....... sweeeeet.
The rest of the weekend ...... Voyeger.......movie ..... Voyeger ....... Movie ..... Warehouse 13........
bad bad ...bad ...... bad ...... bad.......
OK so last night he in Auck Land was promised as a Fine an d sunny night ....... Yeah right.
Many of the usual face were there, I climbed with OldYorkie, Chem, and Artful, and watched Antiflam on chasing after Charlie.The FlyingMan, Mr Careful. No Tin man and the Rabit went indoor, Bad Santa never beat the weather, although he did get up Orangatang the previous Wednesday, well done that boy.
Climbed Sowiliqy, Bandersnatch, Bad Behavior, and Samercand, not a bad night in all, but rained out at 730. and only the Bandersnatch lead.
Tuesday, October 20, 2009
I here a lot of things ........
I here that the Tim Man got up a climb.......
I here the White Rabbit may poke his head out of the burrow.......
I here Bad Santa may actually turn up........
Tonight has come, and the land is dry, and only sound you will here, is the sound of our gear.
So don't be affraid, no don't shead a tear, for the sun has come out, and climbing time is here.
The Quarry tonight ........
I here the White Rabbit may poke his head out of the burrow.......
I here Bad Santa may actually turn up........
Tonight has come, and the land is dry, and only sound you will here, is the sound of our gear.
So don't be affraid, no don't shead a tear, for the sun has come out, and climbing time is here.
The Quarry tonight ........
Monday, September 28, 2009
Ashes to Ashes, Dust to Dust, the Bogan Edge, is a definite Must.
Generally it was a good week, Of to the Edge at Morin Rd, the big Mt Wellington, on Wednesday night, the main crowd was there, climbed with Ex Army, he was doin the 24-26s and the FBC was Doin the 16-18s, I know my limits.
The Tin Man was there, and although I promised to belay I kinda got side tracked and yakity yak yaked, too dam much. had an attempt at the over hung 18 yellow, made the 3rd clip before crashing out.
Go West Young Man!!
Thursday, the White Rabit, and the FBC headed West, The new "Extreme Edge Westie" Opening night, and what a sight for these old eyes, so new and spanky, so grippy no chalky, we climbed so much was puffy no talky.
It was like being a 6 year old in a candy store with a pocket fulla coins, and teeth to destroy, we went hell for the highways, the Rabit was fast no breaks for Jack, the FBC had to pass.
Thanks to the Hiking Girl who came to the rescue, FBC got a little rest in.
Spinny Norman's dad was yellow pants shining, the Padawan improved, beyond all measure.
The weekend bought Sloth, Saturday was .....not the best of days .....wet wet wet.
To quote an email from the FBC to some of the mid weakers:
mmmmmmmmm ....... I think it was the Whole Camebert(as in a complete scoff of an entire round)(gooey centre with grey edge), port (Taylor's Special Reserve) and 72% Dark Choc (only a 1/4 bar) and 2 crackers on Saturday night, that nailed my arse on Sunday ....... puffed out on Silver Airman. mmmmmmmmm.................. Bloody Crackers, knew I shoulda steered clear of the crackers.
mmmmmmmm blood presure on Friday was 100/70 ....... need a warm rock to lie on.
So Sunday was a bit of a bust ... with low energy levels, got up Grave Yard Grove, Biggles Flies West, and Silver Airman, but was very puffed out. The day was the Gang of four reunion.
The Tin Man was there, and although I promised to belay I kinda got side tracked and yakity yak yaked, too dam much. had an attempt at the over hung 18 yellow, made the 3rd clip before crashing out.
Go West Young Man!!
Thursday, the White Rabit, and the FBC headed West, The new "Extreme Edge Westie" Opening night, and what a sight for these old eyes, so new and spanky, so grippy no chalky, we climbed so much was puffy no talky.
It was like being a 6 year old in a candy store with a pocket fulla coins, and teeth to destroy, we went hell for the highways, the Rabit was fast no breaks for Jack, the FBC had to pass.
Thanks to the Hiking Girl who came to the rescue, FBC got a little rest in.
Spinny Norman's dad was yellow pants shining, the Padawan improved, beyond all measure.
The weekend bought Sloth, Saturday was .....not the best of days .....wet wet wet.
To quote an email from the FBC to some of the mid weakers:
mmmmmmmmm ....... I think it was the Whole Camebert(as in a complete scoff of an entire round)(gooey centre with grey edge), port (Taylor's Special Reserve) and 72% Dark Choc (only a 1/4 bar) and 2 crackers on Saturday night, that nailed my arse on Sunday ....... puffed out on Silver Airman. mmmmmmmmm.................. Bloody Crackers, knew I shoulda steered clear of the crackers.
mmmmmmmm blood presure on Friday was 100/70 ....... need a warm rock to lie on.
So Sunday was a bit of a bust ... with low energy levels, got up Grave Yard Grove, Biggles Flies West, and Silver Airman, but was very puffed out. The day was the Gang of four reunion.
Monday, September 21, 2009
I don't think this is Kansas Toto.
Had a bit of a slack Wednesday night last week, meet with the White Rabit at work, and diverted to the Masters place, The Tin Man as he shall now be known, was literally throwen into the car by his wee wifey....... so off to the bat cave we went.
As Bad Santa had gone to the crapital for the week, Hot wheels was on the spot very quick, and did not get lost, must have had a better navigator.
The White Rab climbed very well, consideringringring he had been toasting weeneies in the early morning ...... mmm roasted appliances.
So that was the Training day.
Saturday rained off.....
Sunday, headed to the LS, Tin Man, Drove there by himself, and walked down the hill, best we have seen him walk for a very long time, he was still not quite ready to rope up though.
Mr Careful arrived as to did the Flying Man, the old gang together again. Ginga.A arrived down,he and Tin Man compaired scares and stories, Ginga.A was cut off while riding 2.5 weeks ago, Carbon Fibre 3 corner tear wound. looks very impressive. and he was Climbing.
did the traditionalwarmup of Souiloqy(18), then we did Barracuda (24), followed by a lead of Defust (18), I did better than last time , making all 3 clips before loosing it.
On to "Revenge of the Lawn"(18) - I was now a bit wreaked and tiered. I did the Alternate start, and found another way over the roofy bit, got there after some serous assistance from the one below.
The Flying man had a little bit of an off day and had some attempts on S. and lowered off, and also lowered off RotL. Maaybe next time.
Mr careful climbed exceptional well, going up Defust twice and finishing on Biggles Flys West, I had busted my fufu value with a 4th asent of defust, slow climbing, showing Mr Sci, and EruoVicChic, my moves, yeah...... this foot goes .....F........u......c.....k, Brused and beaten thus ended ma day.
Yeah I knows, "Shut up and Climb, bitch".
As Bad Santa had gone to the crapital for the week, Hot wheels was on the spot very quick, and did not get lost, must have had a better navigator.
The White Rab climbed very well, consideringringring he had been toasting weeneies in the early morning ...... mmm roasted appliances.
So that was the Training day.
Saturday rained off.....
Sunday, headed to the LS, Tin Man, Drove there by himself, and walked down the hill, best we have seen him walk for a very long time, he was still not quite ready to rope up though.
Mr Careful arrived as to did the Flying Man, the old gang together again. Ginga.A arrived down,he and Tin Man compaired scares and stories, Ginga.A was cut off while riding 2.5 weeks ago, Carbon Fibre 3 corner tear wound. looks very impressive. and he was Climbing.
did the traditionalwarmup of Souiloqy(18), then we did Barracuda (24), followed by a lead of Defust (18), I did better than last time , making all 3 clips before loosing it.
On to "Revenge of the Lawn"(18) - I was now a bit wreaked and tiered. I did the Alternate start, and found another way over the roofy bit, got there after some serous assistance from the one below.
The Flying man had a little bit of an off day and had some attempts on S. and lowered off, and also lowered off RotL. Maaybe next time.
Mr careful climbed exceptional well, going up Defust twice and finishing on Biggles Flys West, I had busted my fufu value with a 4th asent of defust, slow climbing, showing Mr Sci, and EruoVicChic, my moves, yeah...... this foot goes .....F........u......c.....k, Brused and beaten thus ended ma day.
Yeah I knows, "Shut up and Climb, bitch".
Sunday, September 13, 2009
Changes are in the Air.
Well the last three weeks have been a bit of a Rolla Coaster.
3 weeks ago my partner gave me a weeks notice of departure. I went north the following week, Fathers Day, and to catch up and spend time with my best mate.
It was a Buety spring day in Whangarei, on the 5th September, so we climbed indoor......... yeah.
Anyway, clear it may have been but it had rained the day before limiting the choises and it was Frackin cold.
Had a good morning at the Blue Tops place, a good Sunday with the Olds.
Got home, apparently there had be a migraine on the shore on the Saturday, thus the exit was delayed to this weekend just been. This Saturday I gave some assistance, but Sunday the weather cleared and the Quarry called me home......
Climbed with a group from the Auckland University Club, while I waited for Mr careful to arrive.
Managed to get in a leads of Solioqy and Bandersnatch before my trainer appeared, I was belayed by PetRock, and had some delightful conversations with BashRock, BashLeg.
By the end of the day we had added Silverairman (Lead), Barracuda (TR), I bombed on Fuuuckknucke (TR) but Mr Careful was well successful on that.
That Bad news we heard was that GingaAnd has had a accedent with his Mountain Bike and has Carbon Fibre in one thigh.
Oh and I went and bought new shoes - Hot Chillies, and did all the climbs in them, nothing beats a bit of retail thearapy.
3 weeks ago my partner gave me a weeks notice of departure. I went north the following week, Fathers Day, and to catch up and spend time with my best mate.
It was a Buety spring day in Whangarei, on the 5th September, so we climbed indoor......... yeah.
Anyway, clear it may have been but it had rained the day before limiting the choises and it was Frackin cold.
Had a good morning at the Blue Tops place, a good Sunday with the Olds.
Got home, apparently there had be a migraine on the shore on the Saturday, thus the exit was delayed to this weekend just been. This Saturday I gave some assistance, but Sunday the weather cleared and the Quarry called me home......
Climbed with a group from the Auckland University Club, while I waited for Mr careful to arrive.
Managed to get in a leads of Solioqy and Bandersnatch before my trainer appeared, I was belayed by PetRock, and had some delightful conversations with BashRock, BashLeg.
By the end of the day we had added Silverairman (Lead), Barracuda (TR), I bombed on Fuuuckknucke (TR) but Mr Careful was well successful on that.
That Bad news we heard was that GingaAnd has had a accedent with his Mountain Bike and has Carbon Fibre in one thigh.
Oh and I went and bought new shoes - Hot Chillies, and did all the climbs in them, nothing beats a bit of retail thearapy.
Thursday, August 27, 2009
Where the Hell did August Go!!
Damit Daggett, Didn't we just have July.
Been doin a bit of Indoor, on the 19th Aug headed off to the Edge, (oh and name change for Mr Curious - the "White Rabit") so any way, headed to the Edge with the White Rabit, and Gamegees and HotWheels Joined us when they got off.
Did quite a bit of work that night and must admit the staminaa is improving greatly.
Weekened of the 23/24 August, went North on the Friday, Stayed with the Parrental Units at 3rd ave Whagarei, Mummy has recently had the Left Hip reholstered, and is doinin really well, as too is the Master down in Aucklandeer with his RoboClimber Femer/Tibia inhancements. Mr Careful, and the FBC went indoor on the 15th Aug and then popped in on the Master for a chat, he was able to show a fine degree of Crutch independence.
Anyway back to the weekend just been, on the 23rd the boy came and collected the FBC in the Lead Swift, and we headed up to Waro Reserve:
http://www.climb.co.nz/Places/Northland/WaroReserve/waro_reserve.htm
We didn't do a lot in there, great little spot though, Carpark in on SHW1 at the North end of Hikurangi. We did 2 climbs on the Main Crag, ithink one was a 13 and the other a 15, arrett.
On Sunday I returned to Auckland, and met with Mr Careful at the LS Auckland boys Grammer, did a couple of Leads, Bandersnatch, Souiliqy, toproped O'rangatang, and nealy completed a TR of Barricuda.
Not a Bad Weekend.
This past Wednesday again hit the Edge and had a serous evening of Climbing - mainly TR, with The White Rabit as the Guide we headed into the rabit hole.
The weekend comith.......
Been doin a bit of Indoor, on the 19th Aug headed off to the Edge, (oh and name change for Mr Curious - the "White Rabit") so any way, headed to the Edge with the White Rabit, and Gamegees and HotWheels Joined us when they got off.
Did quite a bit of work that night and must admit the staminaa is improving greatly.
Weekened of the 23/24 August, went North on the Friday, Stayed with the Parrental Units at 3rd ave Whagarei, Mummy has recently had the Left Hip reholstered, and is doinin really well, as too is the Master down in Aucklandeer with his RoboClimber Femer/Tibia inhancements. Mr Careful, and the FBC went indoor on the 15th Aug and then popped in on the Master for a chat, he was able to show a fine degree of Crutch independence.
Anyway back to the weekend just been, on the 23rd the boy came and collected the FBC in the Lead Swift, and we headed up to Waro Reserve:
http://www.climb.co.nz/Places/Northland/WaroReserve/waro_reserve.htm
We didn't do a lot in there, great little spot though, Carpark in on SHW1 at the North end of Hikurangi. We did 2 climbs on the Main Crag, ithink one was a 13 and the other a 15, arrett.
On Sunday I returned to Auckland, and met with Mr Careful at the LS Auckland boys Grammer, did a couple of Leads, Bandersnatch, Souiliqy, toproped O'rangatang, and nealy completed a TR of Barricuda.
Not a Bad Weekend.
This past Wednesday again hit the Edge and had a serous evening of Climbing - mainly TR, with The White Rabit as the Guide we headed into the rabit hole.
The weekend comith.......
Thursday, July 30, 2009
A Good S4 weekend.
Sunny Saturday Sunny Sunday. Quarry Time.
What a beutiful weekened ......
Out to the Quarry.
Left thumb still giving issue, but the FBC can climb a couple of old favorites without Gripping with the Left.
We (Gamegees and Me) Saturday, climbed Silver Airman Direct on Top rope (17) and then I Lead SQ (18) and then top roped it before depating for the day.
Headed back down on Sunday for a bit more and Climbed with The Student, and the WipperSnapper, Lead SQ and then the Student has a go at leading Barricuda (24) but was having issues with placing gear in the Holds he wanted to use.
So we top roped it, well they did and I faile right at the top - miss is as good as a mile, had got through the crux. ..... Next time.
Thumb was a bit acky.
Back to Indoor on Wed Nes Night - Brokenhead - Gamegees and Mr Curous and NavelFire. Thumb still sore, No Left Grip, did the Chimney, failed the rounded Over hang, boys were on fire.
Lookin forward to this week end.
What a beutiful weekened ......
Out to the Quarry.
Left thumb still giving issue, but the FBC can climb a couple of old favorites without Gripping with the Left.
We (Gamegees and Me) Saturday, climbed Silver Airman Direct on Top rope (17) and then I Lead SQ (18) and then top roped it before depating for the day.
Headed back down on Sunday for a bit more and Climbed with The Student, and the WipperSnapper, Lead SQ and then the Student has a go at leading Barricuda (24) but was having issues with placing gear in the Holds he wanted to use.
So we top roped it, well they did and I faile right at the top - miss is as good as a mile, had got through the crux. ..... Next time.
Thumb was a bit acky.
Back to Indoor on Wed Nes Night - Brokenhead - Gamegees and Mr Curous and NavelFire. Thumb still sore, No Left Grip, did the Chimney, failed the rounded Over hang, boys were on fire.
Lookin forward to this week end.
Wednesday, July 08, 2009
The Spores Were Indoor
Well the past few weeks we have been hitting the walls indoor.
Either Extreme Edge www.extremeedge.co.nz or at the Birkenhead wall http://www.northshorecity.govt.nz/NorthShoreLeisure/Birkenhead/Indoor_rock_climbing.asp
Birkenhead is smaller, more intense, we have meet new climbers and been joine by HotWheels who can climb up the Jugs with out using feet, an amaazin feat to watch and Gamegees has meet an old work mate there, Mr Curious, tall sinuewy and altogether a really nice bloke, damm good company, good climber, but has not yet been tested in the sweaty heat of the Quarry. Soon.
There are others there who have recently come to this fine addiction, and will when weather permits head to the REAL Rock.
On the weekend just been I headed north to Whangarei, primarily to visit me Mum, who has has a ball and socket replacement, fine if your a car, but just another sign of our aging. All has been good so far, and she was back home this monday.
So while in the North I caught up with Me best Mate "The Boy" and went to the Vertical Play ground. http://www.verticalplayground.co.nz/ . It's a great place and has got to be the most under used resourse in Whangarei. Run by the "Blue Tops" and supported by Bauldrick (do try his coffee), it is a truely great place to hang on a wet day.
This is where I buggerred ma finger December 23 rd last year.............. so what the hell, just to ballance things up I buggered the other hand this time ..... funny thing was it was on the same piece of Plywood, although a different climb, F.it .... again.
The Lession: "Don't let the boy egg me on".
The "Ever Happy One" Iced me up and then bound the injurous apendigle ...... It's still sore .... but not too bad....... Penance for The Boy ...... He will Lead Climb at the Quarry next time he is there ....... LS.
Was back at Birkenhead last night, taped up the thumb and just did a couple of Juggy Climbs. Mr Curious got up the purple overhang (17) an was serously happy - 3rd week attempt, no falls, no sits.
It was now Gamegees turn, he tried to pike out, but uder threats of hassament at the coal face today from Hotwheels, and Mr Curious and the FBC givin hi serous shit about been a Libriel woosey blouse, he finally pulled his shit together and made the attempt, one fall (a real one not a faked one............better) and then he pull the Fooker out of the oriffice .......... well bugga a bar stool, was he a happy little poney OR WHAT!!
Hope springs eternal that the weather will clear and we will agin feel the joys of real rock. I'm gettin an Itch and it ain't in the Crotch.
Either Extreme Edge www.extremeedge.co.nz or at the Birkenhead wall http://www.northshorecity.govt.nz/NorthShoreLeisure/Birkenhead/Indoor_rock_climbing.asp
Birkenhead is smaller, more intense, we have meet new climbers and been joine by HotWheels who can climb up the Jugs with out using feet, an amaazin feat to watch and Gamegees has meet an old work mate there, Mr Curious, tall sinuewy and altogether a really nice bloke, damm good company, good climber, but has not yet been tested in the sweaty heat of the Quarry. Soon.
There are others there who have recently come to this fine addiction, and will when weather permits head to the REAL Rock.
On the weekend just been I headed north to Whangarei, primarily to visit me Mum, who has has a ball and socket replacement, fine if your a car, but just another sign of our aging. All has been good so far, and she was back home this monday.
So while in the North I caught up with Me best Mate "The Boy" and went to the Vertical Play ground. http://www.verticalplayground.co.nz/ . It's a great place and has got to be the most under used resourse in Whangarei. Run by the "Blue Tops" and supported by Bauldrick (do try his coffee), it is a truely great place to hang on a wet day.
This is where I buggerred ma finger December 23 rd last year.............. so what the hell, just to ballance things up I buggered the other hand this time ..... funny thing was it was on the same piece of Plywood, although a different climb, F.it .... again.
The Lession: "Don't let the boy egg me on".
The "Ever Happy One" Iced me up and then bound the injurous apendigle ...... It's still sore .... but not too bad....... Penance for The Boy ...... He will Lead Climb at the Quarry next time he is there ....... LS.
Was back at Birkenhead last night, taped up the thumb and just did a couple of Juggy Climbs. Mr Curious got up the purple overhang (17) an was serously happy - 3rd week attempt, no falls, no sits.
It was now Gamegees turn, he tried to pike out, but uder threats of hassament at the coal face today from Hotwheels, and Mr Curious and the FBC givin hi serous shit about been a Libriel woosey blouse, he finally pulled his shit together and made the attempt, one fall (a real one not a faked one............better) and then he pull the Fooker out of the oriffice .......... well bugga a bar stool, was he a happy little poney OR WHAT!!
Hope springs eternal that the weather will clear and we will agin feel the joys of real rock. I'm gettin an Itch and it ain't in the Crotch.
Sunday, June 21, 2009
Karangahake Gorge - Save me from Great Ideas
Karangahake Gorge is half way between Paeroa and Waihi
The Plan: Gamegees and the Old FBC.
Early start 05:45 get up. done.
Outa the house and on the road by 06:30. Done.
Arrive at Karangahake Gorge, before 08:00. Done.
Hike in and be at the Base of Prelude (14) 45m 2 pitch by 08:30. Oh this was too easy. Done again.
Well that was Just too good to be true............
The track into K gorge is amazing, gone is the Pipe line, and it is now a proper hikers track, the pipeline swing bridges have been replaced with walking surfaces and the hike to the bottom of the goat track up to the climbs was a 10 min stroll, the trek up to the base of the "Shield Wall" was still a mission, but a good warm up, and on a cold, crisp winter morning (about zero C), we were at the base of Prelude, and well warmed up.
Unfortunately that side of the gorge does not get sunlight in winter until well into the afternoon. Great in summer, not in winter. It had not been climbed for a while and had an excellent covering of moss and lichens, these held the damp exceedingly well.
GameGees timed the FBC ascent of the first pitch at 1.5 hrs. Two falls, one significant with a no.3 wire pulling through the placement making the total fall about 4m. My new helmet has been crissined, it was crazy, thought I had a good foot placement and was stretching up to find a hand hold, move the left foot out to flag, Right hand in a fist jam, and felt the right foot just start to slide. #$&^* &$^*& *$&* $&* %&# %% && **( ^$%.
Climb back up and placed a No.4 wire where the 3 hand been.
When I finally got to the Belay point, I was able to deploy my new radio, and talk to Gamegees below, he did well, this being his first truly exposed climb, and by the time he joined me at the belay station he was frozen and shitting himself, the view as always from the place is magniffecent, but at the same time cruel, as the walls on the far side of the gorge are bathed in Bright Sunlight, and we are now frozen.
Lookin up the K gorge
The u-nano-mouse agreement was to get down and warm ASAP. So without completeing (ha, didn't even think about it) the second pitch we abded down, Packed up and headed out.
We were back in sunny Auckland by 14:10 and I was utterly Stuffed.
It's now Monday here and I have phoned into work and advised that I am in no condition to come in.
I have not been this sore in a long time.
The Plan: Gamegees and the Old FBC.
Early start 05:45 get up. done.
Outa the house and on the road by 06:30. Done.
Arrive at Karangahake Gorge, before 08:00. Done.
Hike in and be at the Base of Prelude (14) 45m 2 pitch by 08:30. Oh this was too easy. Done again.
Well that was Just too good to be true............
The track into K gorge is amazing, gone is the Pipe line, and it is now a proper hikers track, the pipeline swing bridges have been replaced with walking surfaces and the hike to the bottom of the goat track up to the climbs was a 10 min stroll, the trek up to the base of the "Shield Wall" was still a mission, but a good warm up, and on a cold, crisp winter morning (about zero C), we were at the base of Prelude, and well warmed up.
Unfortunately that side of the gorge does not get sunlight in winter until well into the afternoon. Great in summer, not in winter. It had not been climbed for a while and had an excellent covering of moss and lichens, these held the damp exceedingly well.
GameGees timed the FBC ascent of the first pitch at 1.5 hrs. Two falls, one significant with a no.3 wire pulling through the placement making the total fall about 4m. My new helmet has been crissined, it was crazy, thought I had a good foot placement and was stretching up to find a hand hold, move the left foot out to flag, Right hand in a fist jam, and felt the right foot just start to slide. #$&^* &$^*& *$&* $&* %&# %% && **( ^$%.
Climb back up and placed a No.4 wire where the 3 hand been.
When I finally got to the Belay point, I was able to deploy my new radio, and talk to Gamegees below, he did well, this being his first truly exposed climb, and by the time he joined me at the belay station he was frozen and shitting himself, the view as always from the place is magniffecent, but at the same time cruel, as the walls on the far side of the gorge are bathed in Bright Sunlight, and we are now frozen.
Lookin down K Gorge
Lookin up the K gorge
Looking down Prelude (14) into the Gorge, at the base is the GameGees. AKA RedHelMutMan.
The u-nano-mouse agreement was to get down and warm ASAP. So without completeing (ha, didn't even think about it) the second pitch we abded down, Packed up and headed out.
We were back in sunny Auckland by 14:10 and I was utterly Stuffed.
It's now Monday here and I have phoned into work and advised that I am in no condition to come in.
I have not been this sore in a long time.
Monday, April 20, 2009
OH YEAH 9 1/2 Minutes of Thrust.
We're off to GatorLand, May 10th, I wanna experence nine an a half minutes of pure thrust. and Stella will head off up to Memphis to visit some old dead singa. If the Yanks get it up, I should have a pretty damm good holiday ridin the rollas.
It's pretty Flat over there... no rock, just Roll
It's pretty Flat over there... no rock, just Roll
Ma Noise Ruinith ova
Off Sick again on Thursday/Friday week after Keaster, Still go some Climbing in with gaMAS on Sunday over at EE-Morin Rd, just 15s 16s and 17s, Finger is comin along great, and so is gaMAS.
Will be Headin back to EE-Morin Rd on Turdsdie Night 23rd April dis week width da noobees.
I WANNA GO OUTDOOR!! Sigh....
Will be Headin back to EE-Morin Rd on Turdsdie Night 23rd April dis week width da noobees.
I WANNA GO OUTDOOR!! Sigh....
My Sweaty Keaster
It has not been a lucky time for the Old FBC, Sunday after the Wharapapa trip, went to the Pools to stretch out the old joints an by the Monday night you could've Cooked a unhatched chicken on me..... Sweatin like like 7 stone white guy at a blackpower meet with I Love vespa's tatotoed on his Forehead.
By Saturday of Keaster, well enough to go indoor with Game-gees to BrokenHead Indadoor, Had a good Day and begun the GameGees on Lead Climbing indoor, the we go to Leef ........ SOMEONEUNNAMMEDLOCKEDTHEIRKEYSINTHEBOOT ....................... GEEES gaMAS.
Keaster Monday - Begin the Lead Trainin OutSide, Collusium (15) Short side, Quarry.
I wandwered on Up on a Lead an setup the Fonteria point.
Then got gaMAS (I think the Name change is called for after Saturdays little FUBAR) to Climb-up Leader style, Clipin my placement.
Next I went up, Placed more gear, but removed the Quickdraws and any binners.
No it gets more Challenging, there was some disent, as Chopper Read would say "Harden the Fuck up gaMAS"
So he did and he did, and he was most pleased with himself.
Finally I assended and set up a top Belay and gaMAS, "Seconded" removing all the placements.
Not a bad Effort all round, I was most impressed.
By Saturday of Keaster, well enough to go indoor with Game-gees to BrokenHead Indadoor, Had a good Day and begun the GameGees on Lead Climbing indoor, the we go to Leef ........ SOMEONEUNNAMMEDLOCKEDTHEIRKEYSINTHEBOOT ....................... GEEES gaMAS.
Keaster Monday - Begin the Lead Trainin OutSide, Collusium (15) Short side, Quarry.
I wandwered on Up on a Lead an setup the Fonteria point.
Then got gaMAS (I think the Name change is called for after Saturdays little FUBAR) to Climb-up Leader style, Clipin my placement.
Next I went up, Placed more gear, but removed the Quickdraws and any binners.
No it gets more Challenging, there was some disent, as Chopper Read would say "Harden the Fuck up gaMAS"
So he did and he did, and he was most pleased with himself.
Finally I assended and set up a top Belay and gaMAS, "Seconded" removing all the placements.
Not a bad Effort all round, I was most impressed.
Monday, April 13, 2009
The Newbees of Wharapapa South
An the 4th of april I was cleared by the Lovely E of HandsON for a causious day of climbing, not wanting to go fullon with any of the Uber mates, I arranged with the Newbees for their first, outa auckland trip.
We arrived down at the Slug wall about 10:30 and spent most of the day, starting on Teenage Mutant Ninga(14), and progreesing up the scale to a 17 on the left. we finished the day over at the Main Crag on a 16 and 14.
We arrived down at the Slug wall about 10:30 and spent most of the day, starting on Teenage Mutant Ninga(14), and progreesing up the scale to a 17 on the left. we finished the day over at the Main Crag on a 16 and 14.
Monday, January 19, 2009
Hands on - finger gone
Another session yesterday at "Hands on Rehabilitation" - Climbing has to cease until otherwise advised, Evelyn has reassesed the injury after the first week, and the effect of the exercises from the first diag.
It appears it is not the attachment plates but the sheath that holds the ligament against the bone that has been damaged. this is a longer to fix and more prone to reoccur.
So sorry boys and girls - all I am now is a pack horse.
Carry your bagges Sirs ............. nice hobbits.
It appears it is not the attachment plates but the sheath that holds the ligament against the bone that has been damaged. this is a longer to fix and more prone to reoccur.
So sorry boys and girls - all I am now is a pack horse.
Carry your bagges Sirs ............. nice hobbits.
Thursday, January 15, 2009
Damm Injured Again
mmmmmm......... 23rd December, up at Whangarei, Rain pissing down heavey as a fat cow, go indoor with the Boy after work, grade 17 warmup, slipped and bent right hand 4th digit back towrd the wrist. bugger.
26th Dec - long side with Mr careful and lead up a few low grades, and TR a 23 favorite BB.
All not too bad, then second a dam 16 Nutcracker and really FUBAR the finger.
4th Jan 2009........ Last day of the break ........ do some easys but the finger so saw is, pain master, fear, fear leads to the darkside.
10th and 11th.......... Northland Climbing down at the Quarry
......... tbc
26th Dec - long side with Mr careful and lead up a few low grades, and TR a 23 favorite BB.
All not too bad, then second a dam 16 Nutcracker and really FUBAR the finger.
4th Jan 2009........ Last day of the break ........ do some easys but the finger so saw is, pain master, fear, fear leads to the darkside.
10th and 11th.......... Northland Climbing down at the Quarry
......... tbc
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