A White Whale gets wHarnessed.

Burrowed the parrental units video Cam......
Took to the Quarry.
Climbed with pH and the Tin Man, the Student, others of the cast were there.......
pH took on the challenge and videoed the FBC shirt off glowing white against the grey rock, first on Silver Airman (17) and then on Defuts (18), finally an attempt on Raven and edged up a little more than last time.
pH was climbing well, and Student was well stuffed by the time the FBC arrived.

It was a beautiful clear night.

the weekend was a bit of a letdown on the personal front, drove down to Waipapa, where the Boy and Mr Blue Top  were having fun, but in the words of Mr Blue Top, "Lost ya MoJo", did not climb, drove home again, veged on the sunday. so this wednesday was a good return.

SlackBarstedClimbing

Had the Long Labour Weekend, two beautiful sunny days ya wooda thought I'd be right into it............

OK so Friday night I was up til 12 configuring an XP machine (for a friend OK), and that activated the geek gene, Saturday Loaded up my second Machine with Ubuntu 9.04, it's got a silent HDMI card, went out side for the fist and last time of the weekend, got an HDMI cable (stupid cheap prick), got home plug in in and .......flick ..........flick.......flick ........flick..........Awe Shit, went and dug in a box and pulled an old VGA cable ....... sweeeeet.

The rest of the weekend ...... Voyeger.......movie ..... Voyeger ....... Movie ..... Warehouse 13........

bad bad ...bad ...... bad ...... bad.......

OK so last night he in Auck Land was promised as a Fine an d sunny night ....... Yeah right.
 Many of the usual face were there, I climbed with OldYorkie, Chem, and Artful, and watched Antiflam on chasing after Charlie.The FlyingMan, Mr Careful. No Tin man and the Rabit went indoor, Bad Santa never beat the weather, although he did get up Orangatang the previous Wednesday, well done that boy.

Climbed Sowiliqy, Bandersnatch, Bad Behavior, and Samercand, not a bad night in all, but rained out at 730. and only the Bandersnatch lead.

I here a lot of things ........

I here that the Tim Man got up a climb.......

I here the White Rabbit may poke his head out of the burrow.......

I here Bad Santa may actually turn up........

Tonight has come, and the land is dry, and only sound you will here, is the sound of our gear.
So don't  be affraid, no don't shead a tear, for the sun has come out, and climbing time is here.

The Quarry tonight ........

Ashes to Ashes, Dust to Dust, the Bogan Edge, is a definite Must.

Generally it was a good week, Of to the Edge at Morin Rd, the big Mt Wellington, on Wednesday night, the main crowd was there, climbed with Ex Army, he was doin the 24-26s and the FBC was Doin the 16-18s, I know my limits.

The Tin Man was there, and although I promised to belay I kinda got side tracked and yakity yak yaked, too dam much. had an attempt at the over hung 18 yellow, made the 3rd clip before crashing out.

Go West Young Man!!

Thursday, the White Rabit, and the FBC headed West,  The new "Extreme Edge Westie" Opening night, and what a sight for these old eyes, so new and spanky, so grippy no chalky, we climbed so much was puffy no talky.

It was like being a 6 year old in a candy store with a pocket fulla coins, and teeth to destroy, we went hell for the highways, the Rabit was fast no breaks for Jack, the FBC had to pass.

Thanks to the Hiking Girl who came to the rescue, FBC got a little rest in.

Spinny Norman's dad was yellow pants shining, the Padawan improved, beyond all measure.

The weekend bought Sloth, Saturday was .....not the best of days .....wet wet wet.

To quote an email from the FBC to some of the mid weakers:

mmmmmmmmm ....... I think it was the Whole Camebert(as in a complete scoff of an entire round)(gooey centre with grey edge), port (Taylor's Special Reserve) and 72% Dark Choc (only a 1/4 bar) and 2 crackers on Saturday night, that nailed my arse on Sunday ....... puffed out on Silver Airman. mmmmmmmmm.................. Bloody Crackers, knew I shoulda steered clear of the crackers.

mmmmmmmm blood presure on Friday was 100/70 ....... need a warm rock to lie on.

So Sunday was a bit of a bust ... with low energy levels, got up Grave Yard Grove, Biggles Flies West, and Silver Airman, but was very puffed out. The day was the Gang of four reunion.

I don't think this is Kansas Toto.

Had a bit of a slack Wednesday night last week, meet with the White Rabit at work, and diverted to the Masters place, The Tin Man as he shall now be known, was literally throwen into the car by his wee wifey....... so off to the bat cave we went.

As Bad Santa had gone to the crapital for the week, Hot wheels was on the spot very quick, and did not get lost, must have had a better navigator.

The White Rab climbed very well, consideringringring he had been toasting weeneies in the early morning ...... mmm roasted appliances.

So that was the Training day.

Saturday rained off.....

Sunday, headed to the LS, Tin Man, Drove there by himself, and walked down the hill, best we have seen him walk for a very long time, he was still not quite ready to rope up though.

Mr Careful arrived as to did the Flying Man, the old gang together again. Ginga.A arrived down,he and Tin Man compaired scares and stories, Ginga.A was cut off while riding 2.5 weeks ago, Carbon Fibre 3 corner tear wound. looks very impressive. and he was Climbing.

did the traditionalwarmup of Souiloqy(18), then we did Barracuda (24), followed by a lead of Defust (18), I did better than last time , making all 3 clips before loosing it.

On to "Revenge of the Lawn"(18) - I was now a bit wreaked and tiered. I did the Alternate start, and found another way over the roofy bit, got there after some serous assistance from the one below.

The Flying man had a little bit of an off day and had some attempts on S. and lowered off, and also lowered off RotL. Maaybe next time.

Mr careful climbed exceptional well, going up Defust twice and finishing on Biggles Flys West, I had busted my fufu value with a 4th asent of defust, slow climbing, showing Mr Sci, and EruoVicChic, my moves, yeah...... this foot goes .....F........u......c.....k, Brused and beaten thus ended ma day.

Yeah I knows, "Shut up and Climb, bitch".

Changes are in the Air.

Well the last three weeks have been a bit of a Rolla Coaster.

3 weeks ago my partner gave me a weeks notice of departure. I went north the following week, Fathers Day, and to catch up and spend time with my best mate.

It was a Buety spring day in Whangarei, on the 5th September, so we climbed indoor......... yeah.
Anyway, clear it may have been but it had rained the day before  limiting the choises and it was Frackin cold.

Had a good morning at the Blue Tops place, a good Sunday with the Olds.

Got home, apparently there had be a migraine on the shore on the Saturday, thus the exit was delayed to this weekend just been. This Saturday I gave some assistance, but Sunday the weather cleared and the Quarry called me home......

Climbed with a group from the Auckland University Club, while I waited for Mr careful to arrive.
Managed to get in a leads of Solioqy and Bandersnatch before my trainer appeared, I was belayed by PetRock, and had some delightful conversations with BashRock, BashLeg.

By the end of the day we had added Silverairman (Lead), Barracuda (TR), I bombed on Fuuuckknucke (TR) but Mr Careful was well successful on that.

That Bad news we heard was that GingaAnd has had a accedent with his Mountain Bike and has Carbon Fibre in one thigh.

Oh and I went and bought new shoes - Hot Chillies, and did all the climbs in them, nothing beats a bit of retail thearapy.

Where the Hell did August Go!!

Damit Daggett, Didn't we just have July.

Been doin a bit of Indoor, on the 19th Aug headed off to the Edge, (oh and name change for Mr Curious - the "White Rabit") so any way, headed to the Edge with the White Rabit, and Gamegees and HotWheels Joined us when they got off.

Did quite a bit of work that night and must admit the staminaa is improving greatly.

Weekened of the 23/24 August, went North on the Friday, Stayed with the Parrental Units at 3rd ave Whagarei, Mummy has recently had the Left Hip reholstered, and is doinin really well, as too is the Master down in Aucklandeer with his RoboClimber Femer/Tibia inhancements. Mr Careful, and the FBC went indoor on the 15th Aug and then popped in on the Master for a chat, he was able to show a fine degree of Crutch independence.

Anyway back to the weekend just been, on the 23rd the boy came and collected the FBC in the Lead Swift, and we headed up to Waro Reserve:

http://www.climb.co.nz/Places/Northland/WaroReserve/waro_reserve.htm

We didn't do a lot in there, great little spot though, Carpark in on SHW1 at the North end of Hikurangi. We did 2 climbs on the Main Crag, ithink one was a 13 and the other a 15, arrett.


On Sunday I returned to Auckland, and met with Mr Careful at the LS Auckland boys Grammer, did a couple of Leads, Bandersnatch, Souiliqy, toproped O'rangatang, and nealy completed a TR of Barricuda.
Not a Bad Weekend.

This past Wednesday again hit the Edge and had a serous evening of Climbing - mainly TR, with The White Rabit as the Guide we headed into the rabit hole.

The weekend comith.......

A Good S4 weekend.

Sunny Saturday Sunny Sunday. Quarry Time.

What a beutiful weekened ......
Out to the Quarry.
Left thumb still giving issue, but the FBC can climb a couple of old favorites without Gripping with the Left.
We (Gamegees and Me) Saturday, climbed Silver Airman Direct on Top rope (17) and then I Lead SQ (18) and then top roped it before depating for the day.

Headed back down on Sunday for a bit more and Climbed with The Student, and the WipperSnapper, Lead SQ and then the Student has a go at leading Barricuda (24) but was having issues with placing gear in the Holds he wanted to use.

So we top roped it, well they did and I faile right at the top - miss is as good as a mile, had got through the crux. ..... Next time.

Thumb was a bit acky.

Back to Indoor on Wed Nes Night - Brokenhead - Gamegees and Mr Curous and NavelFire. Thumb still sore, No Left Grip, did the Chimney, failed the rounded Over hang, boys were on fire.

Lookin forward to this week end.

The Spores Were Indoor

Well the past few weeks we have been hitting the walls indoor.

Either Extreme Edge www.extremeedge.co.nz or at the Birkenhead wall http://www.northshorecity.govt.nz/NorthShoreLeisure/Birkenhead/Indoor_rock_climbing.asp

Birkenhead is smaller, more intense, we have meet new climbers and been joine by HotWheels who can climb up the Jugs with out using feet, an amaazin feat to watch and Gamegees has meet an old work mate there, Mr Curious, tall sinuewy and altogether a really nice bloke, damm good company, good climber, but has not yet been tested in the sweaty heat of the Quarry. Soon.

There are others there who have recently come to this fine addiction, and will when weather permits head to the REAL Rock.

On the weekend just been I headed north to Whangarei, primarily to visit me Mum, who has has a ball and socket replacement, fine if your a car, but just another sign of our aging. All has been good so far, and she was back home this monday.

So while in the North I caught up with Me best Mate "The Boy" and went to the Vertical Play ground. http://www.verticalplayground.co.nz/ . It's a great place and has got to be the most under used resourse in Whangarei. Run by the "Blue Tops" and supported by Bauldrick (do try his coffee), it is a truely great place to hang on a wet day.

This is where I buggerred ma finger December 23 rd last year.............. so what the hell, just to ballance things up I buggered the other hand this time ..... funny thing was it was on the same piece of Plywood, although a different climb, F.it .... again.

The Lession: "Don't let the boy egg me on".

The "Ever Happy One" Iced me up and then bound the injurous apendigle ...... It's still sore .... but not too bad....... Penance for The Boy ...... He will Lead Climb at the Quarry next time he is there ....... LS.

Was back at Birkenhead last night, taped up the thumb and just did a couple of Juggy Climbs. Mr Curious got up the purple overhang (17) an was serously happy - 3rd week attempt, no falls, no sits.

It was now Gamegees turn, he tried to pike out, but uder threats of hassament at the coal face today from Hotwheels, and Mr Curious and the FBC givin hi serous shit about been a Libriel woosey blouse, he finally pulled his shit together and made the attempt, one fall (a real one not a faked one............better) and then he pull the Fooker out of the oriffice .......... well bugga a bar stool, was he a happy little poney OR WHAT!!

Hope springs eternal that the weather will clear and we will agin feel the joys of real rock. I'm gettin an Itch and it ain't in the Crotch.

Karangahake Gorge - Save me from Great Ideas

Karangahake Gorge is half way between Paeroa and Waihi

The Plan: Gamegees and the Old FBC.
Early start 05:45 get up. done.
Outa the house and on the road by 06:30. Done.
Arrive at Karangahake Gorge, before 08:00. Done.
Hike in and be at the Base of Prelude (14) 45m 2 pitch by 08:30. Oh this was too easy. Done again.

Well that was Just too good to be true............

The track into K gorge is amazing, gone is the Pipe line, and it is now a proper hikers track, the pipeline swing bridges have been replaced with walking surfaces and the hike to the bottom of the goat track up to the climbs was a 10 min stroll, the trek up to the base of the "Shield Wall" was still a mission, but a good warm up, and on a cold, crisp winter morning (about zero C), we were at the base of Prelude, and well warmed up.

Unfortunately that side of the gorge does not get sunlight in winter until well into the afternoon. Great in summer, not in winter. It had not been climbed for a while and had an excellent covering of moss and lichens, these held the damp exceedingly well.

GameGees timed the FBC ascent of the first pitch at 1.5 hrs. Two falls, one significant with a no.3 wire pulling through the placement making the total fall about 4m. My new helmet has been crissined, it was crazy, thought I had a good foot placement and was stretching up to find a hand hold, move the left foot out to flag, Right hand in a fist jam, and felt the right foot just start to slide. #$&^* &$^*& *$&* $&* %&# %% && **( ^$%.

Climb back up and placed a No.4 wire where the 3 hand been.

When I finally got to the Belay point, I was able to deploy my new radio, and talk to Gamegees below, he did well, this being his first truly exposed climb, and by the time he joined me at the belay station he was frozen and shitting himself, the view as always from the place is magniffecent, but at the same time cruel, as the walls on the far side of the gorge are bathed in Bright Sunlight, and we are now frozen.

Lookin down K Gorge

Lookin up the K gorge

Looking down Prelude (14) into the Gorge, at the base is the GameGees. AKA RedHelMutMan.

The u-nano-mouse agreement was to get down and warm ASAP. So without completeing (ha, didn't even think about it) the second pitch we abded down, Packed up and headed out.

We were back in sunny Auckland by 14:10 and I was utterly Stuffed.

It's now Monday here and I have phoned into work and advised that I am in no condition to come in.

I have not been this sore in a long time.

OH YEAH 9 1/2 Minutes of Thrust.

We're off to GatorLand, May 10th, I wanna experence nine an a half minutes of pure thrust. and Stella will head off up to Memphis to visit some old dead singa. If the Yanks get it up, I should have a pretty damm good holiday ridin the rollas.

It's pretty Flat over there... no rock, just Roll

Ma Noise Ruinith ova

Off Sick again on Thursday/Friday week after Keaster, Still go some Climbing in with gaMAS on Sunday over at EE-Morin Rd, just 15s 16s and 17s, Finger is comin along great, and so is gaMAS.

Will be Headin back to EE-Morin Rd on Turdsdie Night 23rd April dis week width da noobees.

I WANNA GO OUTDOOR!! Sigh....

My Sweaty Keaster

It has not been a lucky time for the Old FBC, Sunday after the Wharapapa trip, went to the Pools to stretch out the old joints an by the Monday night you could've Cooked a unhatched chicken on me..... Sweatin like like 7 stone white guy at a blackpower meet with I Love vespa's tatotoed on his Forehead.

By Saturday of Keaster, well enough to go indoor with Game-gees to BrokenHead Indadoor, Had a good Day and begun the GameGees on Lead Climbing indoor, the we go to Leef ........ SOMEONEUNNAMMEDLOCKEDTHEIRKEYSINTHEBOOT ....................... GEEES gaMAS.

Keaster Monday - Begin the Lead Trainin OutSide, Collusium (15) Short side, Quarry.
I wandwered on Up on a Lead an setup the Fonteria point.
Then got gaMAS (I think the Name change is called for after Saturdays little FUBAR) to Climb-up Leader style, Clipin my placement.
Next I went up, Placed more gear, but removed the Quickdraws and any binners.
No it gets more Challenging, there was some disent, as Chopper Read would say "Harden the Fuck up gaMAS"
So he did and he did, and he was most pleased with himself.
Finally I assended and set up a top Belay and gaMAS, "Seconded" removing all the placements.
Not a bad Effort all round, I was most impressed.

The Newbees of Wharapapa South

An the 4th of april I was cleared by the Lovely E of HandsON for a causious day of climbing, not wanting to go fullon with any of the Uber mates, I arranged with the Newbees for their first, outa auckland trip.

We arrived down at the Slug wall about 10:30 and spent most of the day, starting on Teenage Mutant Ninga(14), and progreesing up the scale to a 17 on the left. we finished the day over at the Main Crag on a 16 and 14.

Hands on - finger gone

Another session yesterday at "Hands on Rehabilitation" - Climbing has to cease until otherwise advised, Evelyn has reassesed the injury after the first week, and the effect of the exercises from the first diag.

It appears it is not the attachment plates but the sheath that holds the ligament against the bone that has been damaged. this is a longer to fix and more prone to reoccur.

So sorry boys and girls - all I am now is a pack horse.

Carry your bagges Sirs ............. nice hobbits.

Damm Injured Again

mmmmmm......... 23rd December, up at Whangarei, Rain pissing down heavey as a fat cow, go indoor with the Boy after work, grade 17 warmup, slipped and bent right hand 4th digit back towrd the wrist. bugger.

26th Dec - long side with Mr careful and lead up a few low grades, and TR a 23 favorite BB.
All not too bad, then second a dam 16 Nutcracker and really FUBAR the finger.

4th Jan 2009........ Last day of the break ........ do some easys but the finger so saw is, pain master, fear, fear leads to the darkside.

10th and 11th.......... Northland Climbing down at the Quarry

......... tbc

Ti Point Trekies

Beam Me UP Scottie.
Saturday 13th December: the Trip to Ti Point.

Ti Point is a Sea Cliff Climbing area about an hours drive north of Auckland, on the way from Warkworth out to Leigh, with good Parking at the Ti Point wharf it is a very pleasent 1.5 km hike along a well maintained DOC track almost to the Craig.

Many routes are bolted and tide and winds need to checked if you want to stay dry. You need to take all you water and food, there ain't none out there.

There are several Online Guides:

http://alpineclub.org.nz/documents/publications/Guidebook_Updates/Ti_Point.pdf
http://www.freeclimb.co.nz/coromandel.html
http://www.mojozone.co.nz/climbing-location/ti-point

The Woman (Lunch and Drink Carrier) bailed on me and then Game-gees rang 1/2 hr before kickoff, with a me grain, some sorta hangover type of thing. Mr Careful and Mr Cautious and the Flyin Man, headed up to the whalf along with many others from the Alpine Expresso club.

By 10:30 the cast of Episode: TiPoint - Sea Trek, headed for the Craig.

Not my best day, Mr careful lead Diabolo (15) on the Amphitheatre Wall, I seconded this deap crevices, his arms are longer and he has no pork belly a cookin in the pot, and some of those placements took a lotta work to reach, let alone retreve, Good on ya.

After Lunch I attempted to lead Chad(16) on the Chad Wall. Big on the attempted bit - I got toasted.

I returned to Earth with only half my mission completed and Mr Careful had to come about and cast a few hexs aside with freinds flashin.

Again I followed into the frey and we ducked and turned under the attacks an swops of the enraged Sea Gullian Devil Beakers.

Took a few pics and I left Careful and Cautious to head back trek past the resting Flyin Man.

I had Dinner with Ma Cussi an Mussa and then headed back to Ock Land.

Utterly and completely Shagged.

A good trip with lots of recovery needed.

Wednesday Stiffie.

Wednesday 10th Dec.
Not a good Day.
She was on Midnight Shift and I locked the cats in the Louge so I could get a good nights sleep.
Woke up and could turn the head Left OK but not Right. Bugga.
Headed to the LS Quarry after Work.

Games-Gees could make it as they had sprung a bit of a nasty on him at work Tuesday, and they really don't come any more foul. Except maybe finding a rotten Monkey's paw in the bottom of a bowl of Veg soup you have just eatn.

So I get down there, and get into trouble on S(18) - On Top Rope for Christ Sake.
Do a bit of Belaying and even that is a bit strained and pained. So I gave up and went home.

Buga buga Buga..........Roll on the weekend and Ti Point.

The Visitation Weekend

Sat 6th Dec:
The Boy came down from beyond the black stump the night before, we hit the Rock at the Gramma school nice and early before the sun got on it and heated it up. did 3 leads up 3 old favorites, SAM(17) DS, S(18),and D(18), but sat on the last peace at the top on D.

We Left at half 10, having got the boy up SMA, and S and having had our Fill of Tennis girls.

Never went back that afternoon as there was a general lack of enthusiam, and the Boy headed of to see "Mathew and Son", and then went for a different Kinda Climbing.

Sunday the 7th:
The Boy turned up Mid afternoon, after thrusting himself up some unknown crevace.
We Headed of to the Quary Long Side picking up Game-Gees and his Bro on the way.
Just the 2 climbs, SAM (17) Direct, with the boy doin that one again and then getting the lads to the Top for a nice absail. the we headed over to S(18) and the Lads all had a go on that.

There was some very nice young talent havin a crack at "Bad Behavour"(23) They thought they were on a 19, but were doin a dam fine job.

I gave them some moral support and told them they were on a 23.

The Bro had a shot at SAM(17) and then we packed it in and headed off.

After Din Dins (no Broken plates) the Boy head back out past the Black stump.

Quite a pleasent weekend and watch 3 harry potter movies.

All Hail the Newbee

Wednesday Climb Night - Was Game-Gees Night.

He came on down from the 4th Floor,
With the 2nd hand shoes that he scored.
A breif stop on the way to replace his briefs,
Some would wonder if he were gay, what would the others say.
But a man he showed himself to be,
When challenged by Silver,
the Airman, he proved for all to see.

Well we got to the LS Auckland Grammer.
After a bit of social I commited to a lead on SilverAirman, we all agreed that that would be a good one to get the Newbee on. Silver airman has a direct start up a pillar (17) or a stepin from the right indirect start (16). It is a fun lead with the first placement about 4m up. has a fine center crack in a chimney, that takes WC 1s and 2s and RPs, a nice bridging climb with a small slab at the top, finishing to a chain and steel ring for belay/TopRope.

For the FBC it's like an old freind, a nice warm up lead. For Game-Gees it was going to be a challange, and as the fourth time climbing and now with real rock boots on, he was tail in the air and egger as a starving rat for a peice of cheese.

He amazeds us, not only did he do the direct start (17), but he got to the top, Staggering, we have a NBC. No Bullshit, Just Straight UP.

The rest of the night was Fun Ho, some old Re Runs turned up, G-Man and Power Boy Dynamic duo from Days past.

Game-Gees belayed the FBC up a lead of Soliloqy (18), with Mr Careful ever watch full, so the training is progressing well, (even though we all know the FBC is a rat up a drain on that climb it was a good time to start Game-gees)

FBC had a go at Barracuda (24) and peal agin - but further up, and then had a go on Revenge of the Lawn (21) and managed to get over the crux before GIVNUP........

Oh well back to a TR of Soliloqy - and do a show off to the Dynamic Duo, and the pretty young ward.

Game Gees had earler had a go at ROTL(21) and got over the Crux, definetly a NBC.

The Sun went down ............. and we left ....Happy.